Walks of Paris that Reveal its Hidden Beauty

Paris j’adore but also sometimes I don’t adore. They call it the most beautiful city in the world, and in many ways, it is. The walks, the food, art, culture, sights, language – tout magnifique! I’ve come to understand Paris as a city of dualities, and I say that as someone who lived here for 6 months on a working holiday. Having put years of French study into practice, discovering that the city you dream of and the city you inhabit are rarely the same place. Four return trips and many walks through this city since have only deepened that complicated affection.

And yet none of that stops me going back. Whether it’s the elegant architecture, the cheese, wine and pastry, the world-class museums, or the simple joy of walking for hours wandering like a flâneur with no real destination. But equally, it’s somewhere you need to stay alert: to the opportunists, the occasional brusqueness of strangers and the less picturesque realities of city life. It is overly romanticised, often impatient, and occasionally exhausting—yet it still calls to me. There is a strange, familiar comfort in its imperfections. I keep going back, not for the postcard, but for its energy and yes, the croissants.

A flâneurs guide to walks around Paris

My favourite way to explore is to wander without a plan and Paris rewards the curious. Instead of a map, think of these as distinct moods. I haven’t stepped into every corner of the twenty arrondissements, but my walks of Paris take to me to these are the areas again and again, always discovering something new.

Where walks around Paris steal your heart

Île St Louis & Le Marais

These are your quintessential stops on any Paris visit. On a sunny day, one of my favourite things to do is grab an ice-cream from Berthillon (honestly the best sorbet in the world, and it’s dairy free), then sit on the bridge and listen to a random accordion playing, or settle in for a glass of wine at the terrace overlooking the Seine – perfection. This pocket of Paris has so many quaint boutiques and cafes that you could spend an entire afternoon here alone. But eventually curiosity pulls you onward, across the river, to Rue de Rivoli, a large boulevard that spans Bastille to the Louvre and takes you into the heart of Le Marais.

On my days off all those years ago, I used to spend a lot of time in this area, and in my opinion, it has some of the best shopping in the city, with no shortage of great places to eat. If you’re in the mood for something sweet, you can’t miss La Loire dans la Théière, known for their oversized lemon meringue tart – especially good purchased as a formule with a pot of tea. Nearby you’ll find the Picasso Museum and the Musée Carnavalet, as well as the beautiful Place de Voges where you can stop by Carette for a hot chocolate or glass of wine and watch the world go by.

Île de la Cité, Saint-Michel & the Latin Quarter

Wander further towards the river and onto Île de la Cité, where Notre-Dame Cathedral and Sainte-Chapelle sit side by side, just moments from the buzz of Saint-Michel and the Latin Quarter. From here, it’s an easy, meandering walk towards Les Halles, where you’ll find the Centre Pompidou – my favourite museum for modern art along with its playful street art and sculptures. For something sweet, stop by Georges Larnicol for salted caramels and chocolates, or browse the beautiful blends at Kusmi Tea (the vanilla rooibos is incredible). Wander a little further into the Left Bank and you’ll find the Jardin du Luxembourg – one of the most beautiful places to pause in the city. Pull up a green chair, sit by the Medici fountain, and take a moment to slow down.

The Louvre, Tuileries & beyond

There are many options for your walk around Paris in these neighbourhoods. From Place de la Concorde you can wander in either direction: one way takes you towards Madeleine which you must walk through Rue Royale to Ladurée and stop for a macaron or sit in the gorgeous restaurant for some lunch and partake in some shopping in the surrounds. Then walk towards Opera, Printemps Hausmann and Galleries Lafayette which has the best views from the rooftop and it’s free. In summer they even had lounges to watch the French Open.

In the other direction from Concorde, stop by the Jardin des Tuileries where you can pull up a chair by the lake and soak up the sunshine with a good book. Then step into the Musée de L’Orangerie to see Monet’s water lilies at scale. Side note if you have time, visit Monet’s house in the countryside or the palace of Versailles for a day trip. Continue walking past Angelina (maybe stop of a famous hot chocolate) before visiting the monumental Louvre museum. Book ahead if you can.

Where Paris walks dazzle

The Eiffel Tower is magical and it’s stunning from any vantage point at any time of the day, just make sure you book tickets well in advance if wanting to get to the top. Side note: it doesn’t get dark until about 10:30pm in Paris so the summer nights are delightfully long!

Montmartre is to me the most magical area of Paris to explore. Once home to bohemians, artists and philosophers, it still espouses that energy. It’s quintessential Paris – cobblestones, art, wine and joie de vivre. Your walk begins with the seemingly endless stairs to get to Sacré-Cœur and enjoy the unspoiled views over Paris. Wander through the church in silence and awe before making your way to Place de Tertre, known for artists painting and lively restaurants. If you come from Rue de Martyrs near Abbesses metro you’ll encounter the wall of love, cute shops, restaurants and cafes. And while Moulin Rouge is iconic, the area at night is pretty sketchy.

Where Paris feels lived in

Some of the most real areas aren’t those you see on postcards and ones that you might stumble upon through your walks around Paris.
Oberkampf, Bastille, and Canal Saint-Martin are areas where I lived during my working holiday and are slightly gritty, increasingly gentrified, but full of life. On a more recent visit, I stayed in the 12th arrondissement near Gare de Lyon which is quieter and more residential, but still within walking distance of Bastille. A good reminder that you don’t need to stay in the centre to experience the city well (just stay near a metro). For a slower, more reflective moment, visit Père Lachaise Cemetery. It’s peaceful, atmospheric, and home to figures like Édith Piaf and Oscar Wilde.

An obsession with French pastry

I’m a sucker for pastry and there’s no better place in the world to indulge your inner glutton. But as someone who suffers from lactose intolerance and loves cheese, well you know the drill, it’s also a game of let’s wing it and see what happens! As I’ve written about elsewhere, a little preparation goes a long way when travelling with a sensitive gut.

You can’t beat a simple baguette with goat’s cheese and a glass of wine. The food scene here is exceptional, with endless options, but I don’t have one specific bakery to recommend except maybe Du Pain et des Idées in the 10th. Honestly, you’ll find incredible bakery goods almost everywhere as you walk around Paris. You don’t need to chase viral spots, just let your senses guide you.

I’m forever drawn to crêpes, croissants, madeleines, macarons, and a good lemon tart. There are also some beautiful specialty tea stores dotted across the city. If you are seeking out something specific, macarons from Pierre Hermé are fantastic, though Ladurée are just as delicious. Most of the desserts are full of cream but the passionfruit tart and Isfahan here are also incredible.

Breakfast is often simple, an espresso with a pain au chocolat or tartine. Lunch or dinner: a glass of red with a boeuf bourguignon, salad, or steak frites. The French take food seriously, but not in a rushed way as it’s to be savoured, enjoyed and stretched out. Dessert included. And perhaps that’s the biggest difference: there’s less of a snacking culture, more intention around meals, and the walking through Paris helps balance it all out.

Useful information for your Paris visit

• Card is accepted almost everywhere in Paris, and I barely needed cash at all. You’ll want reliable Wi-Fi, and a VPN is useful when travelling.
• Be mindful on the metro and keep your belongings secure and close to you. It’s best not to engage with people asking you to sign petitions or attempting distraction-style interactions.
• Paris is very walkable, but it’s more enjoyable when you’re not trying to criss-cross the city in a single day. The metro is also easy to use and reliable when you do need it.
• Early mornings are quiet and almost unrecognisable compared to later in the day, when the city comes alive. People tend to eat dinner quite late, and the evenings stretch out slowly.
• The weather can be unpredictable, and in summer the days feel long and beautiful, but it can also get surprisingly hot – air conditioning isn’t as commonly used in France as it is elsewhere, so it’s something to be prepared for.
• Walks around Paris will tire you so comfortable shoes matter more than aesthetics. Paris is undeniably stylish, but in reality the style is more effortless and understated than the “Emily in Paris” version suggests.

On y va – time to start planning your walks in Paris

Paris doesn’t represent all of France but it does have a reputation. Yes, you might encounter the person who winces at your French or doesn’t smile, but spend enough time here and a different picture emerges. There’s a strong sense of family and community, a genuine joie de vivre that plays out daily over an apéro (often with a generous amount of cheese). People can seem direct, even critical at times, something that’s as much a feature of the language as it is the culture, which can sometimes be mistaken for indifference or distaste, particularly by visitors.

Even so, Paris is a paradox and I still love it. It is charming, ever changing and always worth visiting. It will frustrate you at times, and you’ll need to stay alert, but its beauty is undeniable. From the iconic Eiffel Tower at dusk, to a simple picnic along the Seine, to that first bite of a flaky, buttery croissant, it’s the accumulation of small moments that stays with you and calls you back.

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